Coordenades 4674

Data de pujada 30 / de setembre / 2015

Data de realització de setembre 2015

3.613 m
802 m
92,7 km

Vista 698 vegades, descarregada 15 vegades

a prop de Bristen, Kanton Uri (Swiss Confederation)

J1- Etzlihütte Ascent (2052m)
Departure Bristen (830m), accessible by TC Ersfeld and Amsteg (go to the terminus of the postal bus). It can also be dropped off earlier by taxi.
The terminus of the bus, follow signs Etzlihütte. First you climb Steep and then by a road that leads into the valley of Etzli that dates back to the Etzlihütte. Often kept in spring hut. Otherwise comfort: plate, kettle and electric heating, water on the sink, heated indoor toilet. D +: 1200m. Difficulty: PD rise

J2- Piz Giuv (3096m) in a loop.
The Etzlihütte, get off at Unter Felleli (2000m). From there take the SSW beautiful slopes towards the summit. We cross the ridge to 2950m Hälsigrat. Follow the ridge of Piz E Giuv by its S side to the top. The last 50 meters are meters on foot. S slope down to 2650m then back up to the Fuorcla Piz Nair (2830m) between Hälsijoch and Piz Nair. Down the slope N Pass to the Unter Felleli 50m then up to return to the Etzlihütte. D + 1300m, 1300m D-. Difficulty: PD + Up, down 3.1 E1

J3 - Crossing Etzlihütte - Camona da Carvardiras (2649m) by Oberaplstock (3328m).
The Etzlihütte, descend Mullersmatt (2000m) and then install the E Chrüzlital until Chrüzlipass (2347m). E down the very steep slope (35-40 °) to the bottom of the Val Strem at about 2100m. E Go to the steep slopes to the 2480 point around Calmut then veer towards the N and win by several steep ledges, passing a snowy ridge at the foot of Piz E Tgietschen: Fuorcla da Strem Sura 3127m (next a characteristic rocky spire). Climb the Oberalpstock by his side and then down E until the Fuorcla da Brunnifirn Cavardiras. The hut is reached by a slight rise. It is not usually kept in spring but has a good stove, wood, crockery and a large dormitory. D +: 1600m, 1000m D-. Difficulty: AD-up, down 3.3 E2 (for Chrülipass).

J4 - Crossing Camona da Cavardiras - Planurahütte (2947m) with ascent (optional) of Gross-Scharhörn (3334m).
From the hut, go down the Val E Cavardiras up 2100m (Cross) and then rising slightly towards the NE (small hut) to take a valley N of the main valley. The Val Gronda down to da Cavrein at 1860m, ​​with a final steep slope. Go NW and N this wide valley whose slopes are recovering gradually and reach the Fuorcla da Cavrein (2844m). Down by a short reminder of the slope 15 to 20 m N (straps on the rock to the west of the pass). Bypassing a wide snowdrift E and win by a rising traverse the slopes N of Fuorcla da Cambrialas that can easily descend to the NE on the Hürfifirn at 2600m. Cross the glacier towards the NNW and back on the top shelf with a steep slope to the west of a large serac (apparent rock face). Gross-Scharhörn climb to the slopes by E immediately S of the edge E, then by the snowy ridge S (end usually walk). E down to the upper glacier plateau and cross it by going back to the E Claridenpass. Gradually veer S Planurahütte to reach after a short descent and ascent (big snowdrift). The cabin is usually kept in the spring. D +: 2000m, 1700m D- (D +: 1400m, D-: 1100m without the Gross-Scharhörn). Difficulty: AD-up, down 3.1 E1

J5 - Ascension of Clariden (3267m) in AR and crossed Planurahütte - Fridolinshütte (2111m)
Planurahütte to cross the vast Claridenpass N, go to the E Clarinboden then a second rocky ridge to gain a foothold on the face of Clariden E that easily leads to the top (accessible on skis). Back to Planurahütte by the same route.
You can get around the hut and its rock by the E, deep in snowdrift. It is then better to go back on the slopes W S of the cabin. E Sandfirn then down the valley following the DO until 2050m. Go to the crossing E Ochsenstock (2265m). This crossing, over imposing bars, requires safe snow conditions. Then back crossing O Fridolinshütte, usually kept in spring. D +: 500m D-: 1300m. Difficulty: PD Up, down 2.3 E1 for Clariden, crossed PD (E3) down 2.1 E1 for Ochsenstock.

J6 - Ascension of Tödi (Piz Russein - 3614m) then descent on AR Tierfehd (805m).
From the hut traverse SSW then descend on the Bifertenfirn at 2100m (not to dwell under the moraine). Then up the glacier. The first seracs bar goes without too much difficulty shore D (safest) or bank G. Then we can move the second bar of seracs, more delicate, usually at the center, or back, skis on his back, a corridor very steep and narrow bank in G: the Schneerus (40 ° approximately 200m in altitude). Continue W on the vast glacier up to 3100m and then turn off to the N and bypass some crevices to win by a steeper ridge NE of the summit, which can be reached easily (usually walking). Descend by the same route (or by mixing and the various options) to below the Fridonlinshütte to 2100m. In spring conditions, it is best to lower the Schneerus before noon (exposure E).
Continue the descent of Bifertenfirn shore D and W out across the slopes above Biferten Bach (small canyon). N ledge to cross the 1600m and then rejoin the W slopes to descend on Hinter Sand (1300m). Then we follow the road (closed to traffic) along the Sand Bach to Tierfehd (805m). We can then find a minibus or a taxi (number as a panel) to join Linthal, or walk over 1:45. D +: 1500m, 2800m D-. Difficulty: AD-up, down 3.1 E2 according to the glacier conditions, AD Up, down 3.3 E2 for Schneerus.

In total 6 days: D + / D-: 8100m. The GPS (after filtering) indicates 90km away.

Veure més external


    Si vols, pots o aquesta ruta.