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2.692 m
1.582 m
0
1,2
2,4
4,88 km

Vista 12 vegades, descarregada 0 vegades

a prop de Laputz Alpe, Vorarlberg (Austria)

Why worthwhile? One of my most adventurous climbs. Magnificent view from the summit.

Starting point: Laguz Alpe 1584m. Drive on from Marul, past the Hof (roadcross), through Fuchwald via a provisionsroad to Alpe Laguz. Pay attention: from Marul on, this road is a toll road. Toll cards can be bought at Ghf Walserklause or from the local grocery shop. [Bludenz - Grosses Walsertal - Marul 976m].

Time: about 6½ - 7½ hours.

Difficulty Rating: 5 / I+

Details: very steep and very tiresome climb. Long duration of the trip. From Untere Laguz till the obere Laguz Alpe over a newly constructed and broad mountain paths. Magnificently marked. From there up through a very steep field with gravel (pebble), often still with remainders of snow. Further through a small passage in the rocks ('Fürkele'). Then a short descent whereby a big bowl is crossed (possible snow remainders present). After this the last climb to the top follows. First steep up over stone fields to the ridge. This ridge is partly very narrow and often very steep. 'Trittsicherheit' and 'Schwindelfreiheit' (see vocabulary) is essential here. When in doubt, don't carry on. Eventually secure everybody with a climbing rope (for inexperienced climbers). From Obere Laguz Alpe on, the markings are bad. Pay attention to the description in the text.
Route description

Towards Untere Laguz Alpe: by car to Marul. In Marul we first buy a day pass for the provisions road to the Laguz Alpe. We go further in to the valley over the provisions road and after about 20 minutes we reach the quiet Laguz Alpe. Right before the alp there is a parking lot.

From the parking lot we walk eastwards towards the Untere Laguz Alpe (1584m.). Between the houses we find a broad, newly constructed mountain path towards Obere Laguz Alpe (sign 'Freiburger Hütte'). After a while we reach the most decayed Obere Laguz Alpe. At the nearly decayed cottage the road splits. We keep to the left towards the big bowl on our left hand side. Climbing this bowl is our first goal. First we walk through the sheep meadow where we can still find a path. In front of the bowl we walk trough large boulders and from there on we best keep to the left hand side of the bowl. The climb is very steep, especially at the end and a path is hard to find. We pay attention to tracks (footprints) and keep, as said earlier, to the left hand side of the bowl. After this difficult climb through deep gravel and pebble we reach a different road that comes up from the south of the Freibürger Hütte.

Here we go left (in northern direction) past the rocks with the help of steel cables towards a passage in the rocks, called 'Fürkele'. At the part we only find a couple of markers, but it is clear in which direction we should go. From this Fürkele we can see that we are not there yet: first we have to decent a bit, after which we have to cross a large bowl. Old snow is often still present, so be cautious, especially because there may be holes between the rocks and the snow itself. Tracks across the snow often resemble the best path left. 600 metres down we see the Klesenza Alpe and on our right hand side the red stone surface, which quickly makes it clear why they call this mountain 'Rote Wand'.

After we crossed the bowl, the second climb follows. Here we go up zigzagging a rock field. Although the climb is steep, it isn't difficult or dangerous. But at the top of this climb we see the biggest challenge of this trip: the ridge to the top! On our left hand side we see a small glacier that drops straight down at the end. On the right hand side we see a hole of several hundred metres deep. And between them a small, steep ridge that becomes wider at the end, nearly at the top. This ridge is only reserved for mountaineers with some experience. It is also important not to be absolutely bothered by any dizziness. For those who are unsure about this last climb, turn back.

For those who want to go further, but who aren't experienced, can better make use of a guide and/or secure themselves with the help of a climbing rope to fellow climbers.

First a small decent follows after which the narrow ridge follows. A real path doesn't exist, often the best choice if to just go over the rocks. Some passages are so small that you absolutely can't stand next to another person. Carefully we climb to on and carefully study our next steps. Markings help us find the right route (and this often means going over rocks). After this adventurous climb the ridge becomes wider and in the shortest time we reach the top of the Rote Wand. Behind us we see where we came from ... The view is superb, because the Rote Wand is at least 200 metres higher than the surrounding summits and we can look out far ahead. In front of us and 800 metres lower the Formarinsee and Freibürger Hütte are located.

Since the only way back to our starting point is the same way we came, we go back across the narrow ridge. Here we again are carefully and descent slowly. After the Fürkele a tiresome and steep descent follows through the stone field. Remember: we have to go west (right) and not straight ahead (south) towards Freibürger Hütte!

Done in 1999.

Comentaris

    Si vols, pots o aquesta ruta.